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welcome | facts | choosing | feeding | looking after | care | links | leaflets Animal charities have reported that domestic rabbits are one of the most neglected and ill-treated pets in the UK, because they spend most of their lives in solitude, imprisoned in their hutches at the bottom of the garden. As we said at the very beginning you must be committed to providing the very best for your rabbit. It is amazing how many people don’t think it’s necessary to interact with their rabbits once they bring them home. But it is, and it is something you need to consider BEFORE you buy your pet. Let’s see what rabbits need. Click on a link below to find out more about looking after your rabbit: |
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In the wild rabbits live in burrows and spend the majority of time foraging for grass, shoots and roots. Living in a hutch allows your rabbit to live outside and receive plenty of sunshine and fresh air every day. Rabbits need good, secure, roomy housing. Bought hutches and runs are not cheap but they are perfect for your pet. Rabbits naturally chew wood, so make sure that any wooden hutch that you purchase has been treated with non-toxic products. You might know someone who could make one for you. A
good hutch will have two compartments – one for the day and one
to nest and hide in at night. Don’t forget that if you have more
than one rabbit you will need a bigger hutch. They prefer to sleep
separately at night, too, so need their own nesting areas.
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Hutch Size Remember that a hutch can NEVER be too big – buy
or make the largest hutch you can manage.
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Hutch
Positioning In cold weather there must be adequate protection from draughts, wind and rain. Repositioning the hutch can make the most of winter sunlight. Plastic sheets over the front of the cage can prevent rain from driving into the cage, but should allow for ventilation. Hutches should be checked before winter to ensure they are water and draught proof – extra bedding should be provided if there is any doubt about insulation. Place the hutch on bricks or legs to avoid becoming damp during wet weather. Ensure the roof is sloping, waterproofed and overhangs slightly to avoid poor drainage on the top surface. Always ensure hutch doors are locked to avoid accidental escape or access by predators, such as foxes. Despite all this a rabbit will thrive with its hutch outside, even in harsh conditions – just don’t forget they still need company! You must also provide a run for your rabbit that allows
him plenty of room to exercise. Rabbits are naturally frightened of
large, open spaces and love playing in a run that contains playthings,
such as boxes, flowerpots, drainpipes and logs.
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Hutches should be cleaned out on a regular basis. This is especially important in warmer weather in order to prevent flies being attracted to the hutch, as this may result in an infestation of maggots. In the winter months, bedding can become damp and mouldy from extreme weather. Did you know that rabbits can catch nasty diseases such as Coccidiosis from dirty hutches? So make sure you pay lots of attention to keeping your rabbit’s hutch clean and hygienic. Here are some tips to help you: Every day Once a week
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Keeping your rabbit warm and cosy at night is very important. As well as providing warmth for your rabbit, it can also be absorbent which makes cleaning easier for you. To
find out more about suitable bedding products, click here.
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It is extremely important that your rabbit has
the opportunity to exercise every day. maintain high levels of fitness Anyway, your rabbit will love running around and playing with his toys! Watch him leaping around kicking his legs in the air from pure enjoyment. You need to provide a large, secure run for daily exercise. This can be free-standing or attached to the hutch. Security and position are extremely important to avoid any harm or stress to your rabbit during his playtime. If you want, you can take your rabbit for a walk on a
harness, in a safe and secure area, or take them inside your home to
play (but don’t forget if they haven’t been house trained,
they may make a little mess!).
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Beware the Chewing Houserabbit! The house offers numerous opportunities for play and investigation. BUT it can be a dangerous place for your rabbit – there are electrical appliances, and wires to chew. Protect wires in your home with plastic tubing or cable guards. You will also need to “bunny-proof” your home so your rabbit only has access to areas that are safe and where you are happy for them to go. You can use items such as a baby gate to prevent them going upstairs. Be careful of open doors and human feet. Rabbits will
dash around and under your feet without warning which may result in
their escape, or even injury to you or your pet.
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Rabbits are naturally very active and inquisitive animals. They like to keep themselves busy and, when allowed, spend the majority of their time running around and investigating their surroundings. Their natural instincts are to forage, explore and socialise. It only takes a few items to create an exciting playground for your pet. Rabbits explore around the edge of an area and its hiding places first, rather than the middle of the area or run. Place objects like tubes, tunnels, untreated wicker baskets and boxes in the run for them to play with. They also like to look under, hide in, or climb onto empty cardboard boxes, wicker baskets and plastic flowerpots. Chimney pots and large plastic pipes make great hiding places and excellent tunnels. Change the items around occasionally to provide added interest for your rabbit. Rabbits are attracted to noisy toys, cat balls (complete with a bell) are ideal and your rabbit will have great fun knocking them around. Piles of logs (natural wood – willow, beech, hazel or apple) make platforms for them to explore or rest under. Rabbits will chew the wood and this will help keep their teeth in trim! Feeding time for a domestic animal is often over in minutes whereas, in the wild, feeding takes most of the day as they forage for their favourite foods. By hiding food and the occasional treat under cardboard boxes, in empty plant or yoghurt pots, or in different areas of the animal’s hutch, your rabbit will be forced to hunt for his food – this will keep him occupied for many happy hours and prevent boredom. Click here to find out more about Rabbit Accessories.
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Remember that most small animals are prey in the wild. So, if they are approached from above they will see a large shadow and become scared. They might run and hide or try to attack you. To ensure that your rabbit becomes tame and affectionate it is important that you handle it frequently and correctly. Picking up a rabbit incorrectly could lead to your rabbit being permanently frightened and may lead to it becoming aggressive. Remember that most small animals are prey in the wild. So, if they are approached from above they will see a large shadow and become scared. They might run and hide or try to attack you. The best way to pick up your rabbit is to talk to him as you approach him - on the same level. Crouch in front of him and let him come to you, presenting the back of your hand for him to sniff. Gently take hold of the scruff with one hand, and support the weight of the rabbit by scooping up the rump with the other hand. Place him on your lap or hold him to your chest and very slowly stand up. Another way is to place one hand under his chest and
support the hindquarters with the other hand; again, always talk to
you rabbit to calm and reassure him.
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Grooming your rabbit is necessary to avoid matting of the fur and maintain a healthy shiny coat. It also helps to build a relationship with your pet. Whilst grooming it is the perfect opportunity for you to examine your pet closely to look for any signs of illness. (See the next section called “Is my rabbit well?” for more details on signs of illness and behaviour.) Check the whole animal, looking for any discharges, sore
areas, scabs, soiling, etc. that may indicate a problem. It is especially
important to check the teeth regularly as they grow all the time and
may require veterinary attention if they become overgrown. To help
prevent this feed a diet which helps provide dental wear. You can also give him
some willow, apple, beech or hazel wood to chew on too.
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We touched briefly on pairing rabbits in the choosing a rabbit section, but it needs explaining in more detail. Rabbits in the wild live in large colonies with a well-structured hierarchy. This is the opposite with domesticated rabbits where they are often kept in solitude. There should be no problems keeping rabbits together if the following rules are followed. Firstly, as we said before, you must have a hutch which is large enough to accommodate more than 1 rabbit. It is best to acquire littermates in order to avoid fighting. Single sex groups will be normally be fine. However, females can be more temperamental during the breeding season. Males will live happily together but may become agitated and fight if they are both chasing the same female. 1 female and 1 male will be happy together but will result in litters. The best advice is to have the rabbits neutered if you do not wish to breed from them. This controls sexual behaviour and aggression, prevents unwanted litters and reduces the possibility of disease of the reproductive system. Although many Rabbits are happily kept with Guinea Pigs,
we do not advise this, as rabbits are naturally dominant and may try
to bully the guinea pig or, even worse, attack them.
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A rabbit is inexpensive to buy, but you must be prepared
to pay for veterinary treatment if he becomes ill. It is also important
to vaccinate your rabbit for myxomatosis and VHD every year (every
6 months if you are in a high-risk area). Neutering Gestation and lactation Older rabbits As we’ve said, you should check all your rabbits
regularly for signs of illness or disease, but older rabbits may require
daily help with grooming as well – this can be an enjoyable experience
for both of you.
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If you want to go on holiday, you must ensure that someone
is happy to look after your pet properly whilst you are away, or you
must be prepared to pay for them to board. |
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